Hug it out! It’s pretty good – 4/5Price: £8.75
Entourage is a TV show that catalogues the exploits of a vapid and flimsy young-blood actor named Vincent (“Vinny”) Jones, based loosely on the early career of Mark Wahlberg (to whom those adjectives equally apply). Vinny’s agent, Ari Gold, is played by Jeremy Piven, and is the most talented actor in the series – most people watched Entourage for Jeremy Piven’s portrayal of a do-anything Hollywood agent who worships at the altar of money and uses catch-phrases like “get the fuck out!!!” and “hug it out bitch!”. The man is Marmite, you either love Ari Gold or you hate him. The same cannot truthfully be said about Patty & Bun’s Ari Gold burger – most people will like this Ari.
We traipsed into the Patty & Bun opposite McDonald’s at Liverpool Street to meet Ari.
Given Patty & Bun is a chain, we couldn’t get behind the counter to speak with the people making burgers, but we could capture some behind-the-scenes footage of the kitchen. We were impressed to see effective use of a cloche, heat lamps and clean open-bun preparation. Construction was strong with this one, ketchup and lettuce at the base, followed by meat, cheese and pickled onion.
You have to hand it to P&B for presentation, their burgers are wrapped in a high-quality wax-paper that keeps the burger warm and held together. A unique sticker holds the parcel together. All of this is great, but does it add to the substance of the burger? Does it contribute to the taste or quality of the burger? No. Like Ari the agent, it’s a good-looking suit, but the suit doesn’t make the man.
The burger is well-presented and holds well in the hand. Meat is good quality but could be juicier. Ingredients are all fresh and of a good standard. The bun felt a little too glossy, it’s brioche but not the most absorbent and fresh we’ve had. In the burger shown above, the pickled onion was very thick and stiff, so stiff that it couldn’t be cut with teeth (you can see the piece of pickled onion jutting out above). Despite this small hiccup, the Ari Gold burger was a good example, we probably got unlucky with the onion.